Commercial care: harmful cosmetic ingredients revealed
Parabens, sulfates, fragrances, phthalates, microplastics… Lists of “cosmetic ingredients to absolutely avoid” are everywhere. The problem is that they often mix facts, shortcuts, and anxiety-inducing claims.
An ingredient is not automatically dangerous just because it’s synthetic, just as a natural ingredient isn’t automatically gentle. The risk depends on the substance, its concentration, how the product is used, and each person's sensitivity.
This guide helps you understand controversial ingredients, read a formula with more discernment, and choose skincare that aligns with your skin's needs — without fear or unrealistic promises.
What does "harmful cosmetic ingredient" really mean?
In everyday language, the word "harmful" implies that an ingredient will necessarily cause damage. In toxicology, the reality is more precise: we distinguish between the intrinsic danger of a substance and the actual risk associated with a given exposure.
Substance
Each ingredient has its own properties. An entire family cannot be judged from a single compound.
Concentration
The quantity used matters. An ingredient may only be permitted below a certain concentration.
Exposure
A product rinsed off after a few seconds is not evaluated the same way as a cream left on the skin for several hours.
Sensitivity
A formula well-tolerated by the majority can still irritate or sensitize a particular person.
Key takeaway: "natural," "synthetic," "chemical-free," or "non-toxic" are not sufficient to assess the safety of a product. Water, vegetable oils, and essential oils are also composed of chemical substances. What matters is the complete formula and its use.
How are cosmetics regulated in Canada?
In Canada, cosmetics are subject to the Food and Drugs Act and the Cosmetic Regulations. Health Canada also maintains a Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist that specifies prohibited or restricted substances under certain conditions.
Manufacturers and importers must submit a notification to Health Canada within ten days of the first sale of a cosmetic. This notification is not a prior approval of the product: the company remains responsible for its safety, compliance, and labeling.
The INCI list — the standardized list of ingredients — helps to know what a product contains. Since April 12, 2026, certain fragrance allergens must also be individually declared when they exceed specified thresholds. To learn more about this topic, consult our guide: how to read an INCI list.
The most debated cosmetic ingredients
There isn't a single universal list of ingredients to ban for everyone. Instead, here are the main families whose function, limitations, and situations where particular attention may be relevant are useful to understand.
Parabens and other preservatives
Preservatives prevent the proliferation of bacteria, yeasts, and molds in water-containing products. Their role is therefore important: a contaminated cream can pose a real risk.
Parabens form a family of several substances that do not all have the same profile. Health Canada indicates that health effects have not been observed at concentrations to which the population is generally exposed through cosmetics. However, certain substances or concentrations may be regulated differently.
Choosing a paraben-free formula may align with your preferences, but "preservative-free" is not automatically safer. An aqueous formula must have an adequate preservation system and be used according to its shelf life.
Sulfates: SLS and SLES
Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) are surfactants used for cleansing and foaming. SLS can be irritating for some people, especially when concentration, contact time, or frequency of use increase.
This does not mean it is carcinogenic or that a product containing it is automatically dangerous. Very dry skin, sensitive scalps, and individuals prone to irritation may simply prefer cleansers formulated with milder surfactants.
Fragrances, essential oils, and allergens
A synthetic fragrance can cause sensitivity in some individuals, but essential oils also contain fragrance molecules and natural allergens. Natural origin therefore does not eliminate the risk of a reaction.
If your skin is reactive, opt for a fragrance-free or lightly scented formula, check for declared allergens, and introduce only one new product at a time. At Oréra, some formulas are scented with essential oils while others are designed without fragrance: the INCI list remains your best guide.
Formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasers
Formaldehyde is a substance of concern, and its use is regulated. Some preservatives can release very small amounts to protect a formula against microorganisms. Health Canada imposes restrictions and labeling requirements depending on the ingredient and concentration.
People already sensitized to formaldehyde or a particular preservative should check the INCI list and consult a healthcare professional.
Phthalates
"Phthalates" refers to a broad family of substances with different uses and profiles. Some are prohibited or restricted in specific products. However, it is inaccurate to claim that any product bearing the word "fragrance" necessarily contains concerning phthalates.
Synthetic dyes and microplastics
An authorized dye is not automatically harmful just because it is synthetic. However, an individual may be sensitive to a specific dye, whether natural or not. It is also important to avoid directly applying conclusions drawn from an orally consumed food dye to a cosmetic.
As for plastic microbeads used for exfoliation or cleansing, their manufacture, import, and sale in toiletries have been prohibited in Canada for several years. Today, the environmental impact of a cosmetic is judged more broadly: formula, packaging, transport, duration of use, and end-of-life.
Three myths to forget for better choices
"Natural = risk-free"
False. Essential oils, plant extracts, and natural allergens can also irritate or sensitize.
"A long INCI list is bad"
False. A comprehensive formula can include several useful ingredients. Their function and dosage matter more than their number.
"Preservative-free is always better"
False. A water-containing product must be adequately protected against microbial contamination.
How to choose cosmetic care wisely
A good routine is not based on fear of a long black list. It relies on well-identified needs, an adapted formula, and consistent use.
- Define your primary need. Cleansing, hydrating, soothing, or nourishing? A versatile product can sometimes replace several specialized treatments.
- Read the complete INCI list. Do not rely solely on "natural," "clean," "hypoallergenic," or "free-from" claims on the front of the packaging.
- Consider the product type. A rinse-off cleanser and a leave-on treatment do not involve the same exposure.
- Introduce only one new product at a time. This way, you can better identify what suits—or doesn't suit—your skin.
- Perform a patch test. Apply a small amount to a limited area before widespread use, especially if your skin is reactive.
- Follow instructions and shelf life. Use clean hands, close the container, and avoid diluting a formula.
- Listen to your skin. In case of burning, swelling, or persistent reaction, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Oréra's approach: simple formulas, not alarmist promises
At Oréra, we handcraft natural skincare in Quebec, prioritizing carefully selected raw materials, consistent formulas, and clear information. Our products are paraben-free, SLS-free, and cruelty-free.
Our choice to use vegetable oils, butters, hydrosols, botanical extracts, and certain functional ingredients does not mean that "natural" automatically suits all skin types. Instead, we believe in transparency, simplicity, and informed choices.
You can consult the INCI list for each product, choose a formula according to your skin type, and avoid fragrances or essential oils you know you are sensitive to. For a complete routine, discover our natural face care collection.
Important: A cosmetic supports the comfort and appearance of the skin; it does not treat a disease. If you live with eczema, psoriasis, an allergy, or a significant reaction, seek advice from a doctor, pharmacist, or dermatologist.
What about the environmental impact of cosmetics?
The natural origin of an ingredient alone does not guarantee a low environmental impact. The cultivation of raw materials, their processing, transport, water consumption, packaging, and the product's end-of-life also matter.
To concretely reduce your footprint, prioritize actions that make sense in your daily life:
- buy fewer products, but choose them intentionally;
- finish one product before opening several others;
- choose concentrated or solid formats when they meet your needs;
- prioritize simple, reusable, or recyclable packaging when local facilities accept them;
- respect recommended quantities to avoid waste;
- support transparent companies regarding their ingredients and practices.
At Oréra, we strive to make responsible choices at every step, without claiming that a product can be perfectly "zero impact." This honesty is part of our vision of eco-luxury.
Frequently Asked Questions about Cosmetic Ingredients
Which cosmetic ingredients should be avoided?
There is no single list valid for everyone. First, avoid ingredients you are allergic or sensitive to, non-compliant products, and uses that do not follow instructions. Health Canada's Hotlist allows you to check prohibited or restricted substances.
Do parabens in cosmetics cause cancer?
Available data do not confirm that parabens authorized at the concentrations used in cosmetics cause cancer. Parabens are a varied family, and their evaluation depends on the substance and exposure. Health Canada regulates ingredients that require restrictions.
Are SLS and SLES sulfates dangerous?
They are not automatically dangerous in a compliant cosmetic. However, SLS can be irritating to some skin or scalps, especially depending on concentration and contact time. A milder formula may be preferable for sensitive individuals.
Is a natural product always better for sensitive skin?
No. Essential oils, plant extracts, and natural fragrances can also cause a reaction. Sensitive skin often benefits from a short routine and a lightly fragranced formula, chosen according to its specific needs.
How to identify a safe cosmetic product?
Check the INCI list, instructions, manufacturer's identity, lot number (if present), and packaging integrity. Be wary of products without a complete label or with unrealistic medical claims. Discontinue use if a reaction occurs.
Kristel Audet
Founder and creator of natural skincare
This content is for informational purposes only and does not replace the advice of a healthcare professional. The tolerance of a cosmetic product varies from person to person. In case of a persistent or significant reaction, discontinue use and consult a professional.
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