How to color with henna: not so complicated!
Henna hair dye has long been used to give hair coppery, red, or brown highlights. It can produce a beautiful result, but it requires preparation and, above all, realistic expectations: the final color depends on the natural base, hair porosity, the chosen powder, and the processing time.
Oréra no longer sells henna or coloring powders. However, we are keeping this guide and its video, as they continue to help many people. For daily hair care, we will also present a natural hair care routine with our solid shampoos and conditioners .
Henna hair dye: understanding plant-based powders
Not all products marketed as “henna” are the same. The ingredient list and botanical name help to better understand what the packet actually contains.
Natural Henna
Lawsonia inermis generally dyes hair in red-orange and coppery tones. The result varies depending on the initial color, the origin of the powder, and the processing time.
Cassia
Often called "neutral henna," cassia is not a coloring henna. It can give very light golden highlights, especially on light hair.
Indigo
Indigofera tinctoria is a plant-based powder used to darken henna hair dye. Its use and preparation differ from those of natural henna.
Important: choose a clearly identified powder with a complete list of ingredients and precise instructions. Always follow the instructions of the manufacturer of the product you are using.
The expectations and reality of henna hair dye
Henna does not lighten hair: it adds pigments to the color already present. On blonde, white, or gray hair, the result can be very vibrant. On dark hair, it will appear more as highlights visible in the light.
Porous or damaged hair can absorb pigments more intensely or irregularly. The same preparation can therefore yield very different results from person to person.
Henna can also be very long-lasting and difficult to remove. Subsequent bleaching or chemical coloring can produce unpredictable results, particularly if the exact composition of the powder used is unknown.
The strand test is essential. Use a small, inconspicuous strand or hair collected from your brush, then observe the result for 48 hours before coloring your entire head of hair.
Precautions to take before using henna hair dye
- Check the botanical name and the complete list of ingredients.
- Perform the manufacturer's recommended test before each use.
- Also, do a strand test to check the color.
- Do not apply the product to irritated or broken skin on the scalp.
- Wear gloves and protect clothing, surfaces, and the skin around your face.
- Inform your hairdresser of any plant-based hair dye before bleaching, perming, or chemical coloring.
Beware of products called “black henna.” Some mixtures may contain PPD or other dyes that are not pure plant powder. Consult Health Canada's warning about black henna and PPD .
How to prepare and apply henna hair dye
Directions may vary depending on the powder and mixture purchased. The following steps are therefore a general overview: manufacturer's instructions should always take precedence.
Useful equipment
- The chosen plant-based powder
- Hot, but not boiling, water
- A bowl and spoon reserved for this use
- Gloves
- A hair coloring brush
- An old towel or cape
- Plastic wrap or a cap to cover the hair
General steps
- First, prepare a small amount for the strand test and the test recommended on the packaging.
- Gradually mix the powder with hot water until a smooth paste, similar to thick yogurt, is obtained.
- Let the mixture sit only if the instructions for your powder recommend it.
- Protect your clothes and skin, then apply the paste in sections, from roots to ends.
- Cover your hair and respect the processing time indicated by the manufacturer. A longer time does not automatically mean a better result.
Coffee, beet juice, and spices do not guarantee a lasting color change. Oils and very acidic liquids can also alter pigment uptake or dry out certain hair types. A simple recipe and a preliminary test remain the most predictable choices.
Dyeing your hair with henna: the video to keep
This short video concretely demonstrates mixing and application. It helps to better visualize the desired texture and how to distribute the paste through the hair.
Henna is very messy and quickly stains hands and porous surfaces. Gloves, an old towel, and an easy-to-clean space will save you a lot of trouble.
Watch on YouTubeHow to rinse and maintain henna hair dye
Rinsing is often the longest step. Start by removing the bulk of the paste with plenty of lukewarm water. Work gently in sections until the water runs clear and no powder remains.
A conditioner applied to the lengths can facilitate detangling and help to dislodge any remaining residue. If you use shampoo immediately, choose a mild formula and avoid aggressively scrubbing the scalp.
The shade may continue to evolve over the next 24 to 48 hours. Therefore, wait before definitively evaluating the color. The plant scent may also persist for a few washes.
How often should henna be reapplied?
There is no universal frequency. It depends on regrowth, the formula, hair porosity, and the feeling it leaves on the hair. Repeated applications to all lengths can lead to accumulation and make some hair stiffer or drier.
When the color of your lengths suits you, a targeted application to the roots may suffice. Above all, monitor your hair's reaction and space out applications if the hair fiber becomes dry or difficult to style.
A natural hair care routine with Oréra
Oréra no longer sells coloring powders, but we can support you in your daily hair care. A simple routine generally includes a solid shampoo adapted to the scalp and a conditioner chosen according to the thickness and dryness level of the lengths .
Step 1
Choose your solid shampoo
Discover formulas designed for different needs: dry hair, sensitive scalp, oily hair, lack of shine, or weakened ends.
See shampoosStep 2
Nourish with a conditioner
ESME offers a light option for fine to normal hair, while YEVA is more suitable for dry, thick, or damaged hair.
See conditionersOur suggestions for a gentle routine
Remember: plant-based hair dye and a natural hair care routine address two different needs. Henna provides pigments, while shampoo and conditioner are used to cleanse, detangle, and maintain hair comfort daily.
Kristel Audet
Founder and Creator of Natural Skincare
This guide is provided for informational purposes only and does not replace manufacturer's guidelines, the advice of a professional hairdresser, or that of a healthcare professional. Every scalp and hair can react differently. Discontinue use in case of irritation or reaction.
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